Some Restaurants Never Leave You

More than a decade ago, one plate of praline bacon at a little neighborhood restaurant in New Orleans found a permanent place on my travel list. Twelve years later, after finally moving to Louisiana, I went back to find out if Elizabeth's was really as good as I remembered.

If you've been reading along for a while, you've probably heard me mention "the list."

It's the running list of restaurants everyone asks me for. The places I recommend without hesitation. The ones I tell friends they simply can't miss. Some names get crossed off. New favorites get added. But a few restaurants will never leave the list.

Elizabeth's is one of them.

The first time I ate there was in 2013, thanks to my good friend Rob Ostrow. We were in New Orleans for a collegiate events conference, and Rob, as usual, knew exactly where the locals went. While the rest of us were happy to wander, he insisted we have dinner at Elizabeth's.  

He was right.

I don't remember everything I ordered that night. I remember the colorful little restaurant. I remember laughing with friends.

And I definitely remember the praline bacon. For the next twelve years, I talked about that bacon. I even tried recreating it myself while I was campaigning for Mardi Gras Queen back in Kerrville. Mine was good, but it never quite captured the magic of the original.

Life moved on.  We moved to New Mexico. Trips to New Orleans came and went. Elizabeth's stayed on the list.

Now that Blake and I have moved to Louisiana, I've been slowly checking off all the places I've wanted to revisit. So when our kids were in town and we happened to be over in the Bywater, I didn't hesitate.

"This is it," I said. "We're going to Elizabeth's."

One thing had changed since my first visit. Back in 2013, Elizabeth's was open for dinner.

These days, they're known for breakfast and lunch, which honestly feels like the perfect fit for the restaurant. Any excuse for brunch is a good one in my book. 

Walking through the door felt strangely familiar, like revisiting an old friend. The colorful neighborhood setting. The quirky artwork. The relaxed atmosphere where nobody seems to be in a hurry. Some places change so much over the years that returning can be disappointing.

Elizabeth's wasn't one of them.

And yes... We ordered the praline bacon. Because of course we did.

One bite immediately reminded me why I'd been talking about it for more than a decade.

Sweet.
Salty.
Peppery.
Sticky.

Completely over the top in the very best way.

It's one of those dishes that sounds almost ridiculous until you taste it. Apparently, we made pretty quick work of that first plate because our waitress walked by, laughed, and brought us another order before we even had a chance to ask. I don't know if she could tell we were hooked or if she just knew exactly what was going to happen.

Either way, not a single piece went to waste.

Then you understand why people talk about it.

As incredible as the praline bacon was, it wasn't the biggest surprise of the meal. I ordered a bowl of the chicken and sausage gumbo, and I haven't stopped thinking about it since.  I've eaten a lot of gumbo over the years, especially since moving to Louisiana, and this is honestly one of the best bowls I've ever had.  It was thick without being heavy, deeply smoky, packed with flavor, and tasted like it had been simmering all day.  If I lived around the corner, I'd probably order a cup every week.

Blake and I also split the chicken and waffles. The waffle itself was good, but the fried chicken completely stole the show. Perfectly crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, and seasoned so well that Morgan kept reaching over and stealing pieces off my plate.  I can't really blame her.

Morgan and Zach both ordered shrimp po' boys. I didn't sneak a bite because they disappeared a little too quickly, but they looked fantastic. The shrimp were piled high on what was unmistakably Leidenheimer French bread, which, if you know New Orleans po' boys, is exactly what you want.

One of my favorite parts of revisiting restaurants years later is finding out whether the memories were accurate.  Sometimes nostalgia makes things seem better than they really were. Sometimes the food isn't quite as good as you remembered.

Elizabeth's passed that test with ease.

It wasn't just as good as I remembered.  It may have been even better because this time I got to share it with Blake, Morgan, and Zach.  Some restaurants become favorites because they're trendy. Others because they're convenient. 

Elizabeth's has stayed on my list for more than twelve years because it delivered both an unforgettable meal and a memory that lasted.  Now that I've finally shared it with my family, I have a feeling it'll stay there for many years to come.

And if you're ever in the Bywater, do yourself a favor.

Order the praline bacon.

And don't skip the gumbo.

Know Before You Go

• Bywater neighborhood
• Breakfast & lunch only
• Don't skip the Pig Candy (Praline Bacon)
• Go hungry
• Arrive early on weekends because it's popular